I've never bow-hunted deer, and I want to begin this year or next. I like simplicity and tradition and I'd rather not use a compound bow, but everyone I mention this to acts like I'm an idiot. I understand that there's a great deal more skill invo

[JM]

Just in case you'd like a little more incentive here are some pics of a few of the bucks my Thunderstick killed.

@Charlie,
When were you in my house taking pictures of my deer ?

[charlie elk]

Just in case you'd like a little more incentive here are some pics of a few of the bucks my Thunderstick killed.

Why the night before Christmas, of course. ;-)

[huntfishtrap]

Sorry I'm so late in throwing in my 2 cents. Was gone on a much-needed vacation since Friday.

I'm not an expert on traditional bows, although I'm a decent instinctive shot with them or a compound. But my advice would be that if you don't want to use a compound, then don't. Don't let the opinions of others influence what you feel you should do. It is harder to achieve hunting accuracy with a traditional bow, especially if you hope to shoot beyond close ranges - 20 yards or more. It can be done, obviously, but it will take more work. With that being said, if you do succeed the end result will surely be more rewarding. And traditional bows do have some notable advantages. Simplicity is the big one. You don't have any reason to worry about all the accessories you "need" to shoot a compound, such as a sight, rest, peep sight, etc. I am currently a compound shooter, but I am considering switching to a traditional setup at some point, just because I'm getting so sick of the frequent maintenance the compound requires.

[Okwaho]

If you want simplicity, I suggest you start with a reflex deflex longbow it is more forgiving than a recurve and delight to carry afield. Don't over-bow start with a bow around 50 lb @ 28" draw. Jim Reynolds, Thunderstick archery, in my opinion, makes some of the finest custom bows at a reasonable price.
Don't encumber the bow with a quiver; I carry my arrows in a hip or back quiver, (Catquiver). A 2 blade broadhead works best I prefer either Zwickey or Grizzly, which I shoot in practice and sharpen those heads for hunting.
The best instructional book on instinctive shooting is "Instinctive Shooting II" by G. Fred Asbell. Make sure you learn to shoot instinctively and don't fall into any of the tricks/traps like gap shooting or aiming down the arrow; these will be very frustrating and hard to break.
I've lost count of the deer that have fallen to my bow.
You are wise starting with a bow that does not have training wheels.

Great, thanks Charlie.

[jcarlin]

If you want simplicity, I suggest you start with a reflex deflex longbow it is more forgiving than a recurve and delight to carry afield. Don't over-bow start with a bow around 50 lb @ 28" draw. Jim Reynolds, Thunderstick archery, in my opinion, makes some of the finest custom bows at a reasonable price.
Don't encumber the bow with a quiver; I carry my arrows in a hip or back quiver, (Catquiver). A 2 blade broadhead works best I prefer either Zwickey or Grizzly, which I shoot in practice and sharpen those heads for hunting.
The best instructional book on instinctive shooting is "Instinctive Shooting II" by G. Fred Asbell. Make sure you learn to shoot instinctively and don't fall into any of the tricks/traps like gap shooting or aiming down the arrow; these will be very frustrating and hard to break.
I've lost count of the deer that have fallen to my bow.
You are wise starting with a bow that does not have training wheels.

Backing up Charlie's statement about over-bowing, (again, not that he needs my support). I picked up a Samic Sage recurve in 55lbs.
Even though I 'knew' going into it that a progressive 55lbs is wildly different than 70 with 80% letoff... let's just say it encourages quick instinctive shooting. I engage in some 1 on 1 sports where you know EXACTLY how your strength measures up to the next guy, and I'm not particularly weak, but a 55lbs draw was plenty and took some getting used to.

[huntfishtrap]

If you want simplicity, I suggest you start with a reflex deflex longbow it is more forgiving than a recurve and delight to carry afield. Don't over-bow start with a bow around 50 lb @ 28" draw. Jim Reynolds, Thunderstick archery, in my opinion, makes some of the finest custom bows at a reasonable price.
Don't encumber the bow with a quiver; I carry my arrows in a hip or back quiver, (Catquiver). A 2 blade broadhead works best I prefer either Zwickey or Grizzly, which I shoot in practice and sharpen those heads for hunting.
The best instructional book on instinctive shooting is "Instinctive Shooting II" by G. Fred Asbell. Make sure you learn to shoot instinctively and don't fall into any of the tricks/traps like gap shooting or aiming down the arrow; these will be very frustrating and hard to break.
I've lost count of the deer that have fallen to my bow.
You are wise starting with a bow that does not have training wheels.

Yes, I would concur. I'm a big, strong guy, but a 50lb recurve is about all I can handle comfortably.

[jcarlin]

I forgot the "and welcome aboard". Welcome aboard.
Archery is satisfying in a lot of ways. It could be frustrating at times early on, but I think I've pretty much outgrown that mentally. If I have an empty freezer still in November, there is more of a sense of urgency, but not the way rookie mistakes used to get to me. It's a good ride.

[charlie elk]

If you want simplicity, I suggest you start with a reflex deflex longbow it is more forgiving than a recurve and delight to carry afield. Don't over-bow start with a bow around 50 lb @ 28" draw. Jim Reynolds, Thunderstick archery, in my opinion, makes some of the finest custom bows at a reasonable price.
Don't encumber the bow with a quiver; I carry my arrows in a hip or back quiver, (Catquiver). A 2 blade broadhead works best I prefer either Zwickey or Grizzly, which I shoot in practice and sharpen those heads for hunting.
The best instructional book on instinctive shooting is "Instinctive Shooting II" by G. Fred Asbell. Make sure you learn to shoot instinctively and don't fall into any of the tricks/traps like gap shooting or aiming down the arrow; these will be very frustrating and hard to break.
I've lost count of the deer that have fallen to my bow.
You are wise starting with a bow that does not have training wheels.

To the contrary jcarlin, thank you for your support. Strength is not necessarily what is needed to pull a "heavy" bow; rather it's teaching your nerves to pick the correct muscles in the shoulders and abdomen to use. Back in the old days when I weighed 140 lbs. soaking wet I could accurately shoot an 85 lb. recurve or longbow.
The main reason I learned to draw such a bow was because Howard Hill preferred an 80-90 lb. longbow. Fred Bear shot an 80 lb. recurve for big game and 70 lb. recurve for deer. Look up pictures of these guys, they were not muscle men.

[pawoods79]

Just in case you'd like a little more incentive here are some pics of a few of the bucks my Thunderstick killed.

Nice

[Pathfinder1]

Hi...!!


Originally, I started out with a long bow, and a few years changed to a recurved bow...!!


I consider the recurved bow to be my all-around preference, and wouldn't think of using anything else...!!