What arrow grain should I get my Beman ICS Hunter arrows for a 45# and 26" draw length Barnet Vortex for deer? What grain for my broadheads?
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What arrow grain should I get my Beman ICS Hunter arrows for a 45# and 26" draw length Barnet Vortex for deer? What grain for my broadheads?
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You generally want to stay above 5 grains per inch, and 6 is better. To figure the total arrow weight, just multiply the length of the arrows by the grains per inch. You can find what GPI your arrows are by either looking on the box, or on the manufacturer's website. For example, if your arrows are 28 inches long and 6 grains per inch, your total arrow weight, insert, nock, and broadhead included, would be in the neighborhood of 270-290 grains. I'd use 100 grain broadheads, just to keep it simple.
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Originally posted by huntfishtrap View PostYou generally want to stay above 5 grains per inch, and 6 is better. To figure the total arrow weight, just multiply the length of the arrows by the grains per inch. You can find what GPI your arrows are by either looking on the box, or on the manufacturer's website. For example, if your arrows are 28 inches long and 6 grains per inch, your total arrow weight, insert, nock, and broadhead included, would be in the neighborhood of 270-290 grains. I'd use 100 grain broadheads, just to keep it simple.
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Huntfishtrap gave some great advice and I'll add my 2 cents: A lighter weight arrow will give you more speed and increase your range to make a hit, but a heavier arrow will give you better momentum for more penetration. Obviously, with heavier arrows, you will have to take closer shots, but you will get better results after you hit the deer. Heavier arrows are harder to stop than lighter ones.
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Originally posted by huntfishtrap View PostYou generally want to stay above 5 grains per inch, and 6 is better. To figure the total arrow weight, just multiply the length of the arrows by the grains per inch. You can find what GPI your arrows are by either looking on the box, or on the manufacturer's website. For example, if your arrows are 28 inches long and 6 grains per inch, your total arrow weight, insert, nock, and broadhead included, would be in the neighborhood of 270-290 grains. I'd use 100 grain broadheads, just to keep it simple.
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Originally posted by 4everAutumn View PostHuntfishtrap gave some great advice and I'll add my 2 cents: A lighter weight arrow will give you more speed and increase your range to make a hit, but a heavier arrow will give you better momentum for more penetration. Obviously, with heavier arrows, you will have to take closer shots, but you will get better results after you hit the deer. Heavier arrows are harder to stop than lighter ones.
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DeerHunter08, keep this in mind, SIMPLICITY!!! A three prong site is plenty to help get your understanding of depth perception. A whisker biscuit is also another great buy to understand nocking and not have to worry about dropping your arrow. The rubber hair looking string silencers are also a cheap buy. As for broadheads, Muzzy 100gr 4-blades are a great and durable made tool. A word of advice! Make sure your practice tips and broadheads are the same grain, and put a little bit of grease on the threads so that if you do shoot into the dirt, the dirt won't cake the tip and cause you to not be able to unscrew it. Ted Nugent uses 45lbs. of draw weight and he drops plenty of animals, check with your state's game laws on if there is a minimum. That's about all I think, we got ya covered.
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Originally posted by 4everAutumn View PostHuntfishtrap gave some great advice and I'll add my 2 cents: A lighter weight arrow will give you more speed and increase your range to make a hit, but a heavier arrow will give you better momentum for more penetration. Obviously, with heavier arrows, you will have to take closer shots, but you will get better results after you hit the deer. Heavier arrows are harder to stop than lighter ones.
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