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Got a question for all you gun experts. My dad owns a 1960s era Ruger Single-Six .22 revolver that somehow developed a nasty spo

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  • Got a question for all you gun experts. My dad owns a 1960s era Ruger Single-Six .22 revolver that somehow developed a nasty spo

    Got a question for all you gun experts. My dad owns a 1960s era Ruger Single-Six .22 revolver that somehow developed a nasty spot of rust on the outside of the barrel. I don't know how it happened, because we keep it in the holster in a dry box where it's easy to get to quickly, in case we need it to dispatch some sort of vermin here on the farm, so it didn't get wet or anything. My best guess is it got a spot of blood on the barrel somehow, and it didn't get cleaned off for some reason. But my question is, what can we do to take the rust off, or at least keep it from rusting further, apart from keeping it well-oiled? The metal is lightly pitted, so I don't think it's going to just rub off with steel wool.

  • #2
    -I have had fillet knives rust due to putting them into the sheath while the knife was still dirty(I would wash the knife later, but forgot about the sheath), so maybe the same happened with the gun and holster.
    -As far as removing the rust, try soaking a white cloth in some gun cleaning oil and really rub it. If any of the rust comes off you will see it on the cloth.

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    • #3
      If it's pitted about all you can do is steel wool it then re blue the spot as best you can. Unfortunately it will never be quite the same.

      Comment


      • #4
        You might try a machinist 'eraser' and then keep it oiled real good. The spot will never disappear completely.

        Comment


        • #5
          Even though you store the gun and holster in a dry box, the leather could have retained some moisture against the metal. I would separate the two whenever storing.

          "The chemical salts utilized in chrome tanning will DEFINITELY cause corrosion in either carbon steel or stainless steel, if left in contact for extended periods of time. Also, many of the newer handgun finishes are manganese phosphate (a type of Parkerizing) which will also be damaged by extended contact.

          Regarding suede (as was pointed out in an earlier reply) yes, that is made by a chrome tanning process. In addition to the potential problems there, suede has much more surface area because of the buffed, porous surface; so suede has the tendency to attract and hold more moisture. This can make a suede-lined holster a big problem in areas of high humidity.

          All leather attracts and holds moisture. Firearms should NEVER be stored in a leather holster or case. All firearms should be removed from the holster after use and wiped down with a lightly oiled cloth before being put away, even for overnight.

          Yes, I have seen these types of problems many times on blued, stainless, and coated pistols.

          The type of corrosion noted by an earlier poster on cartridge cases in a veg-tanned carrier is known as vertigris, a mold-like substance that forms when brass (or any copper-containing metal) is left in contact with any type of leather. It will usually wipe off, and serious vertigris deposits usually can be cleaned with club soda (although this may require touching up the leather finish).

          Vegetable tanned leather is the only real choice for leather holsters, period. All chrome tanned leather should be avoided when possible; linings (including suede) require treatment of the handgun on a daily basis; while valuable in protecting the gun's finish from holster wear, they create additional problems due to moisture absorption.

          37 years of holster making, 24 years in law enforcement, and 40 years of carrying a handgun daily provided me with a little knowledge on these subjects."

          Comment

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