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What would be the reasoning behind my Ruger LCR .357mag not ejecting brass properly? Upon shooting up to ten shots in a row; on

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  • What would be the reasoning behind my Ruger LCR .357mag not ejecting brass properly? Upon shooting up to ten shots in a row; on

    What would be the reasoning behind my Ruger LCR .357mag not ejecting brass properly? Upon shooting up to ten shots in a row; on the second crisis reload, the plunger will not eject the brass unless it is heeled hard with my palm. I understand that if I was shooting .38s through it first, that a carbon ring from the shorter brass may cause a build-up, but this is not the point here. Also the gun was very well cleaned and the cylinder spotless. Ammunition used was Federal, as well as Hornady .357s. I will probably contact Ruger in regards to a possible fault in the finish of my cylinder, but I wondered what you all thought it could be. Thanks.

  • #2
    Repeat the firing scenario and see if it happens again. If it does, mark the chamber that is hanging up. Then run the test again and see if it is the same chamber. That could narrow things down and offer some clues as to why.

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    • #3
      I haven't actually held one of the LCRs yet. JHPs advice seems good to me, but I wonder, if the cylinders seem clean, but the revolver still seems to function properly after a fresh cleaning, is there fouling that's managing to get into and interfere with the plunger? I have a Taurus 605 that after about 4 reloads will start to do the same thing, but it does tend to build up some fouling in the cylinder's themselves. One thing you pointed out that hadn't occurred to me is that I almost always use Federal ammo in it, and it seems that there's some fairly gritty powder residue left behind.

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      • #4
        I have a 38 SPC LCR and one thing I know is that the ejector rod is not long enough to completely eject the cartridges without a sharp slap. You will find that with many snub nosed revolvers. My guess is that after a couple reloads you get a little fouling that can hold up the empties from completely ejecting.

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        • #5
          You may have a build up In the cylinder from .38 special ammo, it can make the longer brass harder too remove.

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          • #6
            Are you removing all the oil from your chamber prior to firing? That's the one place you want to leave dry.

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            • #7
              @Larry Praag: .38spl were never fired from the gun so I ruled that out, but thanks for the reply.

              @land cruiser: It's a possibility that some oil could have been in the cylinders, but not sure why that would cause, when the cylinder heats up from sequential shots, for them to stick. I'd assume that would keep them freely moving instead.

              Update on the issue: I received my LCR back from Ruger, who replaced the entire cylinder and ejector rod assembly. It appears that I now have a different metal all-together of cylinder, that is now blued instead of matte grey. Ruger states they took it to the range and fired 30 sequential rounds through it, and there wasn't any problems. They also replaced my front pin on the sight as well. I will let you know when I find out after firing it myself.

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