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  • More reloading stuff

    D72C23A5-0A2C-4272-BB14-8FB3EE74D387.jpeg


    Rather than hijack RA’s reloading thread I thought I’d continue my progress separately. Pretty sure we can keep both running.

    So I dropped in on a friend who’s handloaded for decades and had offered assistance. Talked about a few things to get his take on load work up and looked over some data. He loaned me Lyman’s 49’th, a Sierra and a Hornady manual. Now I can cross reference things and will write down some starting options.

    We discussed what chamberings I was working with, before we left he pulled out two unopened boxes of 100gr .243 Speers and a box of 100gr Sierra’s with 26 bullets in it. He loaded .243 for someone else years ago but doesn’t own one himself so sent them home with me. The price tag on them made me smile, think they’ve been on the shelf awhile.

    Jimbo; I made the feeler tool out of a paper clip and have been checking cases as I’ve been going. I haven’t noticed anything obvious but what exactly should I be expecting if the case is comprised?

  • #2
    Case head separation occurs just ahead of the "web" of the case.
    In my experience, it begins to show as a very light ring on the case just above the web.
    I've never used jhjimbo's trick.
    I presume you would be able to "feel" the depression where the brass thins.
    I will have to try that sometime.

    Comment


    • #3
      Great. If the point reaches all the way to the bottom that is great. When the brass stretches it takes brass from just above the web/base and the case grows in length. Happens to some degree every time you fire it. .. When you move the feeler point up and down against the inside of the wall you will feel a dip in the side all around the case. When using wire, light pressure on point. This is what I use. The point is as sharp as a pin. Length will reach the bottom of my magnum cartridges.
      Note, if the case is dull and tarnished the bright ring that usually shows up on the outside opposite the thin spot on the inside may not be visible but will show up using the feeler wire on the inside.
      The next thing to happen if there is a thinning of the case wall is a head separation. Not good.
      Of course neck splits will be visible. If you save brass to scrap, hammer the neck closed so it does not get loaded again. Good Luck Jim

      P.S. I thought I would add why you measure OAL of brass and trim when necessary. When the case stretches the mouth can enter the lands and get pinched on the bullet. When fired the pressure spikes very high. Could damage the firearm. It depends on the chamber how much stretch is tolerable, best to check OAL and trim back to spec than take a chance. One reason people neck size is to slow the brass stretch. The other cause of neck stretch is when the sizing button is withdrawn from the neck it pulls on the neck. Depending on how much lube you use determines how much it stretches. One way to reduce the effect is to get carbide sizer buttons. The other is to use a good lube. I use RCBS II
      which is water soluble. That way I can wash the brass to make sure ALL the lube is out. Can't do that with petroleum based lubes. Lube causes powder to deteriorate. Jim .

      . IMG_0667.JPG
      Last edited by jhjimbo; 01-19-2021, 08:33 AM.

      Comment


      • #4
        Here ya go fitch270,
        1.jpg This is the "ring" that is the indicator of impending case head separation. I find it most visible after cleaning and resizing.

        This article, though Australian, is good at explaining the method jimbo talks about.

        https://aussiehunter.org/cartridge-c...ad-separation/

        Since I don't maintain logs, case lots or history of loads, I watch for case head separation and the first indication I get, in the scrap bucket it goes. I've already sold one 5 gallon bucket about 3/4 full of "dead" brass. Not bad "mad" money! LOL!

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by fitch270 View Post
          D72C23A5-0A2C-4272-BB14-8FB3EE74D387.jpeg


          Rather than hijack RA’s reloading thread I thought I’d continue my progress separately. Pretty sure we can keep both running.

          So I dropped in on a friend who’s handloaded for decades and had offered assistance. Talked about a few things to get his take on load work up and looked over some data. He loaned me Lyman’s 49’th, a Sierra and a Hornady manual. Now I can cross reference things and will write down some starting options.

          We discussed what chamberings I was working with, before we left he pulled out two unopened boxes of 100gr .243 Speers and a box of 100gr Sierra’s with 26 bullets in it. He loaded .243 for someone else years ago but doesn’t own one himself so sent them home with me. The price tag on them made me smile, think they’ve been on the shelf awhile.

          Jimbo; I made the feeler tool out of a paper clip and have been checking cases as I’ve been going. I haven’t noticed anything obvious but what exactly should I be expecting if the case is comprised?
          To pick a powder/ start and max load, lay them out on a spread sheet with expected velocity for each powder and bullet candidate. Use a couple of manuals and average results. Manuals use big test barrels unless otherwise stated. Test barrels performance usually can not be duplicated in a rifle. This is my worksheet for one caliber. Boat, reloads 010.JPG .

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by fitch270 View Post
            D72C23A5-0A2C-4272-BB14-8FB3EE74D387.jpeg


            Rather than hijack RA’s reloading thread I thought I’d continue my progress separately. Pretty sure we can keep both running.

            So I dropped in on a friend who’s handloaded for decades and had offered assistance. Talked about a few things to get his take on load work up and looked over some data. He loaned me Lyman’s 49’th, a Sierra and a Hornady manual. Now I can cross reference things and will write down some starting options.

            We discussed what chamberings I was working with, before we left he pulled out two unopened boxes of 100gr .243 Speers and a box of 100gr Sierra’s with 26 bullets in it. He loaded .243 for someone else years ago but doesn’t own one himself so sent them home with me. The price tag on them made me smile, think they’ve been on the shelf awhile.

            Jimbo; I made the feeler tool out of a paper clip and have been checking cases as I’ve been going. I haven’t noticed anything obvious but what exactly should I be expecting if the case is comprised?
            I also think we can keep two threads running.

            I bought a 50th edition Lyman manual last spring and then got a Hodgdon 2020 manual when I ordered some supplies from Southern Shooting Supplies, which was helpful because the Lyman manual doesn't have load data for Staball 6.5 in it.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by FirstBubba View Post
              Here ya go fitch270,
              1.jpg This is the "ring" that is the indicator of impending case head separation. I find it most visible after cleaning and resizing.
              .
              This article, though Australian, is good at explaining the method jimbo talks about.

              https://aussiehunter.org/cartridge-c...ad-separation/

              Since I don't maintain logs, case lots or history of loads, I watch for case head separation and the first indication I get, in the scrap bucket it goes. I've already sold one 5 gallon bucket about 3/4 full of "dead" brass. Not bad "mad" money! LOL!
              That link was very helpful FB, thanks.

              The first batch of brass I prepped was some older WW stuff that had been reloaded previously. I bought the box of ammo at a gun show, it had a label with the load and a notation of FL resized but that was it. Pure guess it hadn't been trimmed as it measured noticeably longer than my once fired factory stuff. After I ran it through the resizing die I noticed the bottom part of the case looked brighter than the rest. That's when I tried the paperclip trick, nothing seemed obvious. Turns out when I ran the next bunch of fired factory cases they had the same look. I realized it's where the sizing die stops making contact with the case. I get the same thing with every die set for the other chamberings. Thing is the separation rings in the link and your photo look like they form in the same basic location, stress point from working the brass in addition to thinning maybe?

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by jhjimbo View Post

                To pick a powder/ start and max load, lay them out on a spread sheet with expected velocity for each powder and bullet candidate. Use a couple of manuals and average results. Manuals use big test barrels unless otherwise stated. Test barrels performance usually can not be duplicated in a rifle. This is my worksheet for one caliber. Boat, reloads 010.JPG .
                Yep, already had that in mind and is my next step now that I have a few more manuals available in addition to internet info.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Red Angus View Post

                  I also think we can keep two threads running.

                  I bought a 50th edition Lyman manual last spring and then got a Hodgdon 2020 manual when I ordered some supplies from Southern Shooting Supplies, which was helpful because the Lyman manual doesn't have load data for Staball 6.5 in it.
                  The combinations are mind boggling, that's why I'd already thought about making a spread sheet like jimbo's. Best way to compare similar load options that aren't exactly what I have on hand.

                  Comment

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